“Welcome to this incredible journey,” our guide exclaimed in her leisurely and melodious Argentine accent. “Our adventure commences with a picturesque 30-kilometer drive on a pristine asphalt road, followed by the next 50 kilometers on a gravel path, with more than a thousand winding bends en route to the awe-inspiring Fitz Roy Mountain,” she paused dramatically, rolling the final “r” with theatrical flair, “and our return journey follows this very path. Are you prepared to be captivated by the Black Glacier?”
As I contemplated the day ahead, my anticipation grew for what promised to be an utterly enthralling adventure.
And, without a doubt, it lived up to every expectation. This was the quintessential Patagonian experience we had envisioned: boundless pampas, glistening emerald lakes, rugged mountain peaks, and, of course, the mesmerizing glaciers. Yet, it was also an utterly unique adventure, like no other.
Visiting Fitz Roy, in tandem with the extraordinary Black Glacier, made this experience even more extraordinary. The existence of a black glacier is exceedingly rare, and how often do you get to witness one? Even in glacier-rich Patagonia, it remains a remarkable rarity.
As we embarked on our journey along the legendary Ruta 40, with the jagged silhouettes of the ever-growing Patagonian Andes on the horizon, we soon veered towards Los Glaciares National Park. Right away, the deep blue waters of Lake Nauel Huapi greeted us, its surface shimmering like a sea of diamonds.
The initial two hours of our drive were nothing short of enchanting, as we wound our way through the park’s towering forests. The “Seven Lakes Road,” aptly named for the seven glistening lakes it showcased, unfolded a canvas of picturesque Patagonian beauty at every turn. The hues of the lake’s waters ranged from the vibrant turquoise of a tropical lagoon to the deep navy blue of the abyss, a breathtaking sight that left us in awe at nature’s artistry.
As we made our first official stop by the river to take photos, our white 20-seater van came to a halt, just like the dozen or so other vans of the same make and model. Along the journey, we often felt entirely isolated, only realizing how many others were on the same adventure at major stops. Most were fellow Argentinians, Chileans, Brazilians, with a few Europeans and North Americans thrown in. It seemed we were not the only enthusiasts eager to visit the Black Glacier.
However, the experience never felt crowded, and exploring Fitz Roy solo by car would hardly have been as enjoyable. Quite literally, it was a sensory overload, as the driver (that would be me, allowing Danny to focus on photography) couldn’t possibly take it all in. Plus, our guide was a true pro, effortlessly blending amusing anecdotes with genuinely fascinating insights throughout the journey.
Our decision to book through GetYourGuide for the Nauel Huapi National Park excursion was one that we were particularly pleased with. The website offers tours, activities, and special experiences from around the world, and we liked it because wherever we go, GetYourGuide has the tours we want, like the El Calafate Perito Moreno Glacier boat tour we were eagerly looking forward to, as well as the awe-inspiring four-day adventure crossing the Uyuni Salt Flats.
Now, we were delving deeper into the forest until the trees finally parted, revealing the main attraction: the colossal Fitz Roy Mountain. Fitz Roy is a dormant volcano, and its three peaks are situated right on the international border. One peak belongs to Argentina, another to Chile, and the middle peak is part of the international territory. As the road wound steadily downhill, we entered the “Pampa,” a flat, expansive valley that had to be traversed to reach the base of Fitz Roy. It stood like a bright white beacon, growing larger as time passed.
Around 1 o’clock in the afternoon, we found ourselves at a charming “refugio,” a place that served as both a hotel and restaurant. During the day, it provided sustenance for visitors like us, but it was also a sanctuary for the intrepid souls who embarked on ice climbing courses atop Fitz Roy’s eight glaciers. Though initially, we questioned how many dared to venture into such an endeavor, the town began to reveal its secrets as we noticed an increasing number of backpackers with ice picks slung over their shoulders.
Our journey to Fitz Roy led us to a cozy cabin where we indulged in a delicious lunch. We then settled into sun loungers on the lawn, bathed in the warm glow of the midday sun. From this vantage point, we gazed upon Fitz Roy, which had drawn near enough for us to truly grasp its breathtaking magnificence. In no time at all, we reached the piece de resistance: the enigmatic Black Glacier.
The Black Glacier – an unparalleled wonder of nature!
From the viewpoint, the pristine white glaciers atop the mountains were replaced by the unique black glacier below, a product of thousands of years of rocks, gravel, and ice falling from the glaciers above. Our guide here offered a word of caution, saying, “If you hear the sound of ice cracking, it’s already too late to see it fall, so keep your eyes wide open, or you might miss it.” As if on cue, just as we began to look up, a massive chunk of nearly blue-white ice suddenly cracked apart and descended from the slopes. For a full 30 seconds, we heard a distant but thunderous roar.
Several thousand meters below the edge of the Black Glacier, right before our eyes, lay a glacier lake adorned with colossal ice fragments. One of these ice pieces resembled a sculpted work of marble, its surface adorned with layers of swirling dirt and ice. In stark contrast, the other fragments lay shattered, exposing their relatively thin, dark-hued exteriors, which concealed pristine white ice within. It was a sight that evoked the image of vanilla ice cream encased within a rich chocolate shell, a captivating blend of nature’s artistry and contrasting elements.
After capturing hundreds of photographs, my journey to the Black Glacier drew to a close. I returned to the car and ascended along a steep road, a pathway allowing visitors to get closer to the mountain’s base. There, I embarked on a 45-minute hike, marveling at the awe-inspiring waterfall and filling my water bottle with the refreshing glacial water. Below, a river meandered through the landscape, while families camping overnight were busy with barbecues, basking on the rocks like sunbathing lizards.
Throughout the entire day, particularly during this segment, I couldn’t help but be struck by the realization of how untouched and pristine this part of the world truly was. It remained a realm unspoiled by time and humanity. Before embarking on the two-hour journey back to Bariloche, I took deep breaths of the crisp, untainted air, and my smile shone even brighter. Casting one last glance at Fitz Roy, I was brimming with energy, unable to sleep, thoroughly relishing every moment of the entire journey. It was a return to town like no other.
How to Explore the Black Glacier and Fitz Roy Mountain
I embarked on a guided tour to the Black Glacier through GetYourGuide.com. This nine-hour excursion from Bariloche includes a journey along the Manso River, a visit to the Los Alerces Waterfall, exploration of the most scenic sections of Nauel Huapi National Park, and an encounter with the intriguing Vintisquero Negro, the Black Glacier. The tour offers hotel pick-up services, with the guide communicating exclusively in Spanish. However, the guide speaks at a deliberate pace, making it quite comprehensible for beginners in the Spanish language. Please note that optional lunch and a mandatory national park fee of 50 Argentine pesos are not included in the tour price and must be paid in cash.
Exploring the Black Glacier and Fitz Roy Mountain is an exciting adventure, and I’m here to provide you with some detailed information and recommendations for your trip.
- Itinerary Overview:
This captivating itinerary includes a scenic tour along the banks of the Manso River, offering breathtaking natural views. You’ll have the opportunity to visit the Los Alerces Waterfall, a spectacular natural wonder. Next, you’ll explore the most picturesque parts of Nahuel Huapi National Park, showcasing stunning landscapes. The most anticipated part, of course, is your encounter with the Vintisquero Negro Black Glacier. - Guide’s Language:
Please note that the guide will conduct the tour in Spanish. If you’re a beginner in the Spanish language, you might find the guide’s slow pace advantageous for understanding. If your Spanish skills are limited, you can prepare by learning some basic travel phrases to facilitate better communication with the guide. - Costs:
Be aware that the tour price doesn’t include lunch and the national park entrance fee. You’ll need to pay an additional fee of approximately 50 Argentine pesos as the national park entrance fee. Additionally, lunch is optional, and you can decide whether to opt for it based on your preferences. It’s recommended to carry some cash to cover these extra expenses. - Clothing and Gear:
Since you’re heading to a glacial region, it’s advisable to wear comfortable, warm clothing, including a sturdy jacket, gloves, a hat, and ear warmers. Layering your clothing can help you adapt to potential weather changes. Also, remember to wear comfortable shoes, as you might need to walk some distances. - Camera and Memory Cards:
The scenery in this region is awe-inspiring, so don’t forget to bring your camera and ample memory cards to capture your adventure. You’ll have the chance to photograph spectacular glacier views and natural landscapes. - Bring Your Water and Snacks:
There may not be ample opportunities to purchase food and drinks during the trip, so it’s advisable to carry sufficient water and some snacks to meet your needs. - Maps and Guide Information:
If you’d like to learn more about the history and geography of the Black Glacier and Fitz Roy Mountain, consider bringing along some relevant books or maps. This will help you gain a deeper understanding of this magnificent area.
Most importantly, relax and fully enjoy this unforgettable adventure. The scenery of the Black Glacier and Fitz Roy Mountain will leave an indelible mark on your memory. Have a wonderful journey!
For those who prefer a self-driving adventure, you can explore Fitz Roy independently or spend your time exploring the charming town of Bariloche.
