I have to admit that I had never heard of Guayaquil before my flight to Ecuador. I’m not sure if I would have visited Guayaquil if it weren’t for my journey to the Galapagos Islands, which has several daily flights from there to Baltra Island. Fortunately, there are multiple flights available from Guayaquil to the Galapagos, which prompted me to consider staying in Guayaquil for a few days after my cruise.
Situated on the western coast of Ecuador, this city is a captivating destination teeming with scenic beauty and cultural allure. While my initial travel plan was to head to the Galapagos Islands, I was fortunate to discover that Guayaquil serves as a major transportation hub, with multiple daily flights to Baltra Island.
Upon my arrival in Guayaquil, I quickly realized that this city offers a multitude of opportunities for exploration. To begin with, it enjoys a coastal location along the Pacific Ocean, boasting enchanting beaches and coastal vistas. You can unwind on the sandy shores, especially at well-known beaches like Playa Las Bachas, and partake in a variety of water activities such as surfing and diving. For those with an interest in marine life, a visit to the city’s aquarium provides insights into the marine ecosystem surrounding the Galapagos Islands.
Moreover, Guayaquil holds a rich historical and cultural heritage. Visitors can explore landmarks like the San Francisco Church and Guayaquil Cathedral, both exuding a timeless charm. Museums like the Guayaquil Botanical Garden and the Museum of Anthropology and Contemporary Art offer opportunities to delve into the region’s history and culture.
Don’t forget to savor the local cuisine. Ecuador is renowned for its fresh seafood and delectable traditional dishes, and you can indulge in a variety of culinary delights at local eateries. Additionally, Guayaquil boasts vibrant markets where you can shop for handcrafted goods and souvenirs.
Guayaquil is a diverse city that provides a range of activities and experiences, whether you are seeking to explore natural beauty, delve into history and culture, or savor delicious cuisine. If you are planning a trip to the Galapagos Islands, considering spending a few days in Guayaquil will certainly add more splendid memories to your journey.
However, this city didn’t immediately captivate me. Its architecture didn’t leave me in awe, and the city itself lacked a particularly charming atmosphere. To make matters worse, during my stay, the weather remained overcast and rainy, which dampened my experience. Despite spending five days in the city, I never found a restaurant that truly impressed me, leaving me somewhat disappointed.
The main attraction of Guayaquil seems to be the transformed Malecon 2000, which is one of the most extensive urban renewal projects in South America. Before Malecon 2000 was developed, this area was not very popular, but now it’s bustling day and night. It stretches for 2.5 kilometers along the wide Guayas River, from the southern Mercado Sur (craft market) to the northern Cerro Santa Ana and Las Penas (which I would visit later). It’s a perfect place for a morning run when the weather is not scorching.
The Guayaquil Ferris Wheel and Cerro Santa Ana are indeed quite beautiful. The Ferris wheel offers panoramic views of the entire city, while Cerro Santa Ana is a historic and picturesque spot. I even watched the movie “La La Land” at an IMAX theater there one evening. The Sweet & Coffee café on Malecon 2000 is a great place to spend an afternoon or enjoy a refreshing drink while strolling through the well-maintained parks along the boardwalk. There are ice cream vendors along the boardwalk, and they are always busy due to Guayaquil’s consistently hot climate. Even in the evenings, temperatures rarely drop below 80°F.
Although I had my initial doubts about Guayaquil, I eventually found that the city had its unique charm, especially with the beautiful attractions of Malecon 2000 and the pleasant cafes. While it didn’t immediately win me over, my exploration of the city led me to discover some places worth appreciating.
I had read about a park in Guayaquil’s city center that was said to be teeming with iguanas. Although I had encountered iguanas in the Galapagos Islands, my fascination for these creatures remained strong. I was eager to explore this park to see if it lived up to its reputation. The Guayaquil Iguana Tourist Guide had painted an enticing picture, and I was curious to see it for myself.
When I entered the park, I was greeted by a surreal scene. Iguanas were scattered all around, basking in the warm sunlight, strolling across paths, and even perching in trees. They seemed to have taken ownership of this green sanctuary in the heart of the bustling city. What struck me the most was their complete lack of fear towards humans; they allowed visitors to approach them and even pet them, behaving almost like tame pets.
I was greeted by an almost surreal and enchanting sight. The air was filled with the melodious songs of birds, and the landscape was adorned with iguanas, basking in the warm embrace of the sun’s rays in a way that felt almost otherworldly. These iguanas could be spotted scattered along the winding paths, gracefully strolling about, and some even sought refuge among the branches of the trees, as if they had seamlessly blended into this urban oasis right in the heart of the bustling city.
Yet, what left the most indelible impression on me was the striking absence of fear these iguanas exhibited towards humans. They appeared entirely unafraid, allowing visitors to approach them without hesitation, and even welcoming gentle caresses of their soft, glistening scales. Their behavior resembled that of domesticated pets rather than wild creatures, and this close, amicable interaction fostered an atmosphere of harmony and trust throughout the park, creating a sense of intimacy with the natural world that deeply moved every visitor.
In this almost dreamlike sanctuary, I couldn’t help but feel an overwhelming connection with nature and a profound sense of privilege for sharing this harmonious environment with these iguanas. The park had truly become a radiant jewel in the midst of the city, offering not only peace and beauty but also encouraging us to rethink the possibilities of coexistence with the wild creatures that share our world.
A kind-hearted lady had stationed herself near one of the benches, offering what she aptly called “iguana food.” It was essentially freshly chopped lettuce, and she was selling these treats to tourists and locals alike. Out of curiosity, I decided to part with 50 cents to buy a bag of this iguana delicacy.
As I scattered the lettuce on the ground, I was soon surrounded by a diverse group of iguanas, each with varying shades of green and sizes. They approached cautiously at first but quickly realized that the human visitors meant no harm. Before long, I found myself enveloped by these gentle reptilian creatures, all vying for their share of the lettuce.
That afternoon spent in the company of these docile iguanas turned out to be one of the most heartwarming and unforgettable experiences during my stay in Guayaquil. It was a unique blend of wildlife interaction and urban charm, leaving me with lasting memories of the city.
Even though I spent a considerable amount of time strolling through the streets of the city, I didn’t quite feel a deep connection with Guayaquil. It’s a sprawling metropolis with a population of 2.69 million, making it Ecuador’s largest and most populous city, even surpassing Quito in size. At first glance, it might appear to be just like any other bustling urban center.
However, my perception of Guayaquil changed dramatically on my last day when the clouds finally gave way to reveal a brilliant blue sky. It was the perfect day to climb the 432 steps to the top of Cerro Santa Ana, where you can ascend even further to the lighthouse’s summit, if the initial 400-plus steps weren’t adventurous enough for you. From this vantage point, you can savor Guayaquil’s breathtaking 360-degree panoramic views. Moreover, you can catch a glimpse of one of Ecuador’s tallest structures, a modern, twisting skyscraper known as “The Point.” Standing at 137 meters (449 feet), it may not be considered a skyscraper by the standards of larger North American cities, but it adds a unique dimension to the city’s skyline.
Guayaquil boasts one of South America’s largest and most vital seaports, situated adjacent to the Guayas River, which flows into the Pacific Ocean a few miles from the city. The scenery in Guayaquil, although I was perspiring profusely after my early morning climb, was well worth the effort. The Las Penas Steps, consisting of 456 stairs, lead you straight through one of Guayaquil’s oldest neighborhoods, Las Penas. The houses here are more colorful and vibrant than in other parts of the city, with some featuring stunning wooden frames and balconies. With over 400 years of history, Las Penas has been declared an “Ecuadorian Cultural Heritage” site and remains one of the nation’s best-preserved communities.
Las Penas used to be one of Guayaquil’s poorest and most dangerous neighborhoods, until a revitalization project transformed its dilapidated structures into a series of eye-catching, colorful houses, restaurants, bars, and shops. Its name derives from the cliffs and limestone (Penas = rocks) that form this hillside. For me, it was undeniably one of my favorite spots in the city, where Guayaquil’s charm and personality shone through. Narrow alleyways were adorned with laundry lines, children played in the streets, and lazy cats lounged on sun-warmed stone walls. Many of Las Penas’ wooden houses have undergone meticulous restoration.
Notably, Las Penas was once a temporary residence for the famous revolutionary, Che Guevara. In 1953, he made a brief stop in Guayaquil during his renowned South American journey. Back then, Las Penas was a crumbling, impoverished community, and Che provided free pediatric assistance to its residents. Renowned writers Ernest Hemingway and Pablo Neruda also spent some time here.
While Guayaquil has moved past its impoverished and crime-ridden past, it is not without its safety concerns. There were several instances when locals advised me to put my camera away during my photography excursions, which left me feeling somewhat uneasy. However, fortunately, my time spent in Las Penas left me with a positive impression of the city, and I wrapped up my stay there with a sense of its charm.
As I boarded the bus for my next destination, I felt excited and content, as I was en route to Montanita, Ecuador’s most famous beach town.
