I didn’t fall in love with any of the places I visited in Ecuador, except for the Galapagos Islands, but I had high hopes for Cuenca. People seemed to really like this Andean university city, and I needed a break from mosquitoes and the sweltering Ecuadorian coast. It took me about eight hours to get from Montañita to Cuenca, with a brief stop in Guayaquil to change buses. When I got off the bus in Cuenca, I immediately felt the good vibes of this city, and I had a feeling I would have a great time here.
I didn’t take a taxi but decided to walk to the hostel I had booked. After a long bus ride, a little walk was much needed. I immediately noticed how beautiful the architecture was. These buildings came from various eras, but it was the blend of architectural styles that made it so interesting. Cuenca was the first city in Ecuador that visually captivated me, as Quito and Guayaquil had unimpressive, unimaginative architecture. I have to admit I prefer cities that are visually pleasing, and Cuenca’s unique architectural fusion earned it a spot on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Cuenca not only fascinated UNESCO but me as well, with its beautiful Spanish colonial architecture, well-preserved Renaissance-era buildings, charming town squares, and many impressive churches, especially the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception. Walking through Cuenca’s streets and buildings, you can see the unique blend of different South American cultures and eras, which was truly impressive. When I read about Cuenca’s UNESCO status, I was even more impressed because it’s based on cultural heritage, including over 1,000 buildings in Cuenca!
Cuenca’s recognition of its cultural heritage naturally means a strong emphasis on preserving historical buildings. This is why simply strolling through the streets, admiring these buildings, and trying to figure out which era they belong to is such a delightful experience.
But this city isn’t just about architecture and wandering. If you’re into museums, Cuenca is the place to be. There are enough museums in this city to keep me busy for a week: the Modern Art Museum, Central Bank Museum (Museo del Banco Central), Prohibido Cultural Center, Medical Museum, Indigenous Culture Museum, Religious Museum of the Immaculate Conception Monastery, and the Americas Traditional Art Center, among others.
Somehow, I’ve never been to any museums, even though the Modern Art Museum was on my to-do list in Cuenca. However, I made the same mistake I’ve made before (seems like I never learn): I waited too long. Assuming I was spending a whole week in Cuenca with plenty of time, during the first few days, I would have taken it slow, just walking in parks and streets, peeking into churches, taking pictures of murals and street art, exploring the market, and checking out the café scene.
What was left on my to-do list was to climb the bell tower of the New Cathedral of Cuenca, which I was told was very worthwhile because of the view it offered of the town and the Andes mountains. However, for some reason, that week slipped through my fingers, and I suddenly had only two days left, and those two days happened to be pouring rain. So, I couldn’t possibly enjoy climbing the bell tower of the Cathedral on my last day, even though I blamed myself for not doing it on a sunny day. But honestly, I enjoyed my time in Cuenca, even though I barely did any touristy activities.
I developed a nice routine, going for a morning run along the river to Paraiso Park, which is a pleasant forest-like park and the largest green space in Cuenca. After that, I would walk up the stairs between Calle 3 Novembre and Calle Larga, checking out the street art there, and then sit down for breakfast in one of the many cafes in town. Cuenca has no shortage of breakfast spots, from local, budget-friendly desayunos for less than $3 to fancier, foreigner-friendly versions like Goza, where I spent $7 on breakfast (they had shakshuka on their menu, how could I resist!).
What did I like about Cuenca? It was the first place in Ecuador where I could easily find food I enjoyed. Ecuadorian cuisine is not very vegetarian-friendly, and for most of my time in Ecuador, I didn’t have any memorable meals. But in Cuenca, there were several international restaurants: an Indian restaurant, a Thai restaurant, two Italian restaurants, and some vegetarian options.
When I wasn’t typing on my laptop, I spent most of my time wandering around the city, reading with my Kindle in a coffee shop, or people-watching in the main square. I didn’t feel the need to do more, and I enjoyed not feeling rushed, not feeling like I had to sightsee all day.
During my week in Cuenca, it felt more like living there rather than visiting all the tourist spots, which once again reinforced to me that experiencing a place is more important to me than checking off all the must-see museums and landmarks. These were not places where locals spent their time. Instead, I met other runners in the park, chatted with cafe and bar owners about life in Ecuador, watched kids play together in Calderon Park, and enjoyed the everyday activities for a while to discover what real life is like living there.
Cuenca is undeniably popular among expats and is Ecuador’s most popular expat destination. But I have to admit that, while I enjoyed my time in this city, I didn’t feel the same attraction that many other foreigners seem to feel. I can’t imagine moving to Cuenca, but then again, I rarely feel like I could move to any place.
After a week in Cuenca, I was itching to move on to my next destination, the adventure capital of Ecuador, Banos.
Practical Information for Cuenca, Ecuador
Places to Stay in Cuenca
One more reason I enjoyed Cuenca is the great value for money when it comes to accommodation! From hostels to inns and budget hotels, there are options to suit everyone:
Best Backpacker Hostels in Cuenca:
- Go Hostel (Dorm beds starting at $7, Double rooms from $22)
- Hostel America Inn (Dorm beds starting at $6, Single rooms from $12, Double rooms from $20)
- Hostal Dreamcatcher (Dorms from $6, Double rooms from $17)
- Hostel Bella Vista (Double rooms from $12, Triple rooms from $24, Single room apartments from $15)
Top Mid-Range Hotels in Cuenca:
- Posada Gran Columbia (Single rooms starting at $13, Double rooms from $23)
- Hostal Hogar Cuencano (Double rooms from $22)
- Hotel Casa San Rafael (Single rooms from $22, Double rooms from $26)
- Nas B&B (Double rooms from $29)
- Hostal Latina (Single rooms from $12, Double rooms from $24)
- San Marcos Villa (Single rooms from $16, Double rooms from $28)
Best Budget Hotels in Cuenca:
- Siena Hotel (Single rooms from $27, Double rooms from $40)
- President Hotel (Double rooms at $42)
- Del Parque Hotel & Suites (Single rooms starting at $38, Double rooms from $65)
Where to Eat and Drink in Cuenca
Here are some of my favorite restaurants and cafes in Cuenca:
Restaurants:
- Fabiano’s (Best pizza in Cuenca!)
- La Tagliatella (Italian)
- Melatte Coffee (Best coffee shop)
- Goza Espresso (High-quality coffee and cakes)
- Cafe Austria (Coffee, cakes, and Austrian-inspired dishes)
- Cafe de Alicia (Coffee and cakes)
- Coffee & Cake
Indian Restaurants:
- Taj Mahal (Indian)
- Thai Connection
Vegetarian/Vegan Restaurants:
- Quinoa Vegetarian Restaurant
- Govinda’s Vegetarian
Desserts:
- Tutto Freddo (Pastry)
- Antares Brewery (Craft beer)
- Becken House Cervezas Artesanales (Craft beer)
